Christmas 2008

It was great to be back at Chalet Balaena where the snow was deep and crisp and even - a positive start to the ski season.

Chalet Balaena


Chalet Balaena with the mountain towering behind...


... and the chapel in the old village, just down the road from us.


While Wink took her new tenant, Will, to show him the slopes I warmed up with a few gentle skis at Outalay


before pausing for a vin chaud!



The next day was Christmas Eve so we went down to the market in Grand Bornand to buy vegetables,


ham and saucisson (I'm not sure about that one in the middle),


as well as gazing at the seasonal specialities of foie gras, snails and Grand Bornand smoked salmon.


As always the cheery M. Bozon jnr looked after us.


To Champion supermarket, where we appreciated their best wishes for the season.


We enjoyed the cornucopia of shellfish


and bid farewell to this fine lobster.


To complete our trip to Thones we visited the Christmas market


where we were warmed by the 'ritual burning of the pallet'


before enjoying a vin chaud, warmed above this unusual log fire. Using a hollowed green log, the fire consumes it slowly throughout the day.


Cheerily served - everyone is imbued with the Christmas spirit.


Back home, we decorated the Christmas tree and strewed presents around it.



Christmas Day and the forecast was promising after a cloudy start.


We set off for the slopes and, having arrived at the top,


fortified ourselves with a hot chocolate and rum!


We skied and snowboarded till lunchtime which we enjoyed up high with Will and Hazel.



Boxing Day was even brighter and we set off again to enjoy the snow, sun and blue skies



as well as great views



with Wink in front of Pointe Percée


and me!



We rounded off our morning with lunch at La Taverne with a bottle of Apremont, the essential mountain frites, endives au gratin



and the company of Yvonne and Juliette as well as Phil.

Autumn Sunday in Greenwich

"Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower."
Albert Camus











With another sunny day forecast we went to Greenwich Park where the views were a bit hazy at first.

When we reached the top of One Tree Hill the sun had burnt off some of the mist and the views north became clearer - I'm sure you can see Limehouse...

From the photos I took it would seem that the vistas over London were more important than the foliage!










Wink enjoyed tree hugging, an activity that hasn't been seen for some time.

In need of suitable refreshment we continued into the town avoiding the fleshpots of the centre and made our way to Royal Hill, an attractive street, where we found two pubs next door to each other: The Richard 1 and The Greenwich Union.

We chose the latter and, from a small menu, I chose roast lamb (here seen with its own Yorkshire pud!) and Wink one of the vegetarian dishes.

As this pub is owned by Meantime Brewery I had a pint of bitter and Wink the Santa Julia Tempranillo Malbec from Argentina. It was pleasant to enjoy our meal in the garden behind the pub.

On our return to the Park we passed this autumnal display (I have used this photo for the latest wine club case).

And we bid a greeting to these two gentlemen relaxing after their Sunday lunch.

Cups runneth over

Every wine region celebrates the vintage in its own particular way, and I did enjoy this story of how the wine flowed in the Italian town of Marina.

I am reminded of when we used to visit an old uncle whose kitchen sink sported 3 taps - the middle one, I was told (I was of an impressionable age) provided beer...

It's good to see this idea emulated in Italy!

Seyssel

We were off on a little wine tour, this time to Clairette de Die, when we broke our journey in Seyssel, yet another vineyard area on the Rhône.

Seyssel is just outside the Savoie and is known in the UK for its bottle-fermented sparkling wines, especially Varichon et Clerc Royal Seyssel (more about this later).

Just above Seyssel we climbed up through the vineyards to the village of Corbonod where we visited Maison Mollex, a wine producer and négociant. Their own production is sparkling, and still white wine made with 100% Roussette (the Altesse of Savoie).

Hence their 'smart' delivery lorry to supply local clients!

We visited the cave and saw their stocks of maturing sparkling wine. Very occasionally a bottle will explode but they are stacked in such a way that no damage is done to the neighbouring bottles.

The bottles are disgorged, to remove the sediment, à la volée – always interesting to see.

We tasted a couple of their Roussettes, preferring La Péclette 2006, from the eponymous 5ha vineyard. "Lovely ripe peachy fruit on the nose this just off-dry wine has good balancing acidity with a meaty finish."

As it was now midday we drove down to Seyssel where we had lunch at the Hotel Beausejour, the yellow building to the right, by the river.

Whilst Wink wisely ordered a seafood salad I indulged in the local speciality, La Friture, not dissimilar to whitebait. Accompanying it was a bowl of quinoa and tomato, so at least there was some healthy eating...

... though I had to have an ice cream!

To complete our visit to Seyssel we continued to the outskirts of the town to the Cave de Vins Lambert, an interesting wine shop that Wink was researching for Wine Travel Guides.

There we met Gérard Lambert who told us that he had bought the rights to produce Royal Seyssel, a sparkling wine made in Seyssel since the start of the 20th century by Varichon et Clerc. This company had been taken over by Boisset, a Burgundy négociant, who'd let its reputation slip.

So Gérard had negotiated (hah!) to buy Royal Seyssel in order to restore it to its former glory. He has built a new aging facility behind his wine shop and he proudly showed us the wine maturing. Good luck to Gérard in his brave endeavour!

The Corpus Christi Clock

Normally time flies, but on this clock time hops!

See the short video about the new Corpus Clock in Cambridge which was unveiled by Professor Stephen Hawking in September.

Savoie - Chautagne

At last the weather was sunny and we were off to visit more of La France Profonde – La Chautagne.

Chautagne is one of the 20 or so small areas in the AOC region of Savoie: there are about 1800ha of vines scattered hither and thither in Savoie where the altitude and slopes allow for wine growing.

With Griselda (my Garmin Nüvi GPS, which can be a tad temperemental but never argumentative) we set off to drive via Annecy through peaceful countryside and then the gorge at Val-de-Fier, with its dams, reaching Serrières en Chautagne to visit a small producer there, Domaine de Verronet.

We rang the bell at the door which connected us to Madame who was working in the vineyard, who said that she would be along in a moment. When she arrived we tasted a range of wines in the little tasting room adjacent to the cellar.

With about 10ha of vines (some rented) 80% are red and 20% white varieties. Chautagne is the exception that makes the rule as Savoie as a whole produces a lot more white than red and rosé. we had a look at the vineyard behind the property before continuing on our way.

We then drove up through the vineyards to find Jacques Maillet. A charming man totally dedicated to making wines with character. After a serious illness in 2002 he reduced his vineyards from 6.5ha to 2.5ha and now produces wine biodynamically, with a loathing of machinery!

We enjoyed a vertical tasting of all his Autrement from its first vintage in 2004 (he now only has 9 bottles left!) to a tank sample of 2007. The wine is a blend of Gamay, Pinot Noir and Mondeuse - some of the latter vines are 107 years old.

I enjoyed all the vintages especially the earliest: pale in colour, which is typical of the red wines of Savoie, with a touch of minerality on the nose with lots of gorgeous ripe fruit - and a touch of heather!

We completed our tasting with a fine aperitif: Jacques' first white, Jacquère 2007 which was delicious. What a great guy!

We had a straightfoward lunch at the Auberge de Motz, a building that had been extensively refurbished by the village council using some of the income generated by the use of the electricity company's hydro-electric dams in its borough.

After lunch we drove through past more vineyards to Ruffieux...

...where we visited the Maison de Chautagne. The home of the local cooperative it also has a very good interactive wine museum as well as a large shop selling their wines as well as other local produce.

Our last visit of the day was to Chanaz, a pretty little tourist town on the Canal de Savières. The canal connects the river Rhône with the Lac de Bourget, the largest lake in France. Boat trips are popular on this waterway which can flow either way depending on the height of the river.

After a visit of the local watermill and a cup of tea we returned home using Griselda to guide us. True to form she found the most direct route which meant travelling up a steep, narrow road by the Lac de Bourget, the trickiness of which was compensated by terrific views of the lake.